Wine and cheese: how to get it right without overcomplicating things

Choose Wine for cheese it seems simple until the cheeseboard reaches the table. There are fresh, creamy, salty, mature, blue and goat’s cheeses; it makes no sense to treat them all in the same way. The good news is that there is no need to memorise rigid pairings. Just look at four things: intensity, fat, salt and texture.

The aim is not to make the wine disappear or turn the cheese into a test. It is to find a balance in which both gain: acidity cleanses the palate, fruit provides contrast and structure complements without hardening the mouth.

Start with intensity, not colour

A delicate cheese calls for an equally delicate wine. A concentrated-flavour cheese can take more body and structure. This rule resolves many of the questions before you even discuss whether it should be white or red.

• Fresh and mild cheeses: work well with dry, fresh whites without too much oak.
• Soft and creamy cheeses: need acidity and some volume to cut through the fat without creating an aggressive contrast.
• Mature cheeses: make room for reds with moderate tannin, ripe fruit and good freshness.
• Blue cheeses: are intense, salty and persistent; they call for a wine with personality and, often, some fruit contrast.

When to choose white wine

White is often the safest option, especially when there are several cheeses on the table. Acidity helps refresh the palate after creamy cheeses, while a dry profile keeps the pairing clean. It is a particularly happy choice for goat’s cheese, requeijão, soft cheeses and boards that also include fruit, nuts or lighter bread.

If the cheese is richer, you do not need to abandon white wine: look instead for more texture and persistence. A full-bodied white can accompany a buttery cheese far better than an overly tannic red.

And red wine?

Red works well with mature cheeses with a drier, firmer flavour, provided it is not excessively astringent. The salt in the cheese can make tannins seem hard and bitter. So instead of looking for the heaviest red, favour balance, fruit and freshness.

A board with mature cheeses, cured meats and sourdough bread usually calls for a food-friendly red, served without over-chilling. On warmer days, a slightly cooler red can make the meal much more enjoyable.

An order that helps when there are several cheeses

If you are tasting different cheeses, move from the mildest to the most intense. Start with fresh and creamy cheeses, move on to mature cheeses and leave the blues until last. The same principle applies to the wines: a fresh white before a more structured red keeps the palate more alert and prevents delicate flavours from being lost.

It is also worth separating the accompaniments. Jam, honey and very sweet fruit can completely change the way the wine feels. If the idea is to understand the pairing, taste the cheese and wine on their own first; then add bread, nuts or something sweet.

If you want straightforward choices, start with OM Bone Dry Branco Bairrada 2023 for fresh cheeses, goat’s cheese and lighter boards. For mature cheeses or more intense flavours, a food-friendly red such as 70/30 Tinto Reserva 2022 Beira Interior may make more sense.

Do not look for a perfect pairing: look for a good table

A cheeseboard is a moment to share, not an exam. For a varied table, start with a White wine dry and fresh; if there are more mature cheeses and baked flavours, add a Red wine balanced. The styles of the Douro and the Bairrada provide good starting points for exploring different profiles at the table.